Completely revised and updated for its second edition, this volume belongs to the Open University series on oceanography. It is designed so that it can be read on its own or studied as part of the Open University third-level course, S330 Oceanography. The book begins by describing the characteristics of waves and tides, and their behaviour in shallow water. After outlining the sources of sediment supply to the oceans, some theoretical aspects of sediment movement and deposition by currents are considered. After looking at wave action in the littoral zone, the interplay of tidal currents, river flow and wave action in estuaries and deltas are explored. The final chapter provides an overview of shelf processes. This is a vital book for all oceanography undergraduate students worldwide. Easy to use question and answer format Full colour illustrations throughout 35-40% revised and extended from 1st edition
Author: John Wright,Angela Colling,Dave Park,Open University. Oceanography Course Team
Publisher: Gulf Professional Publishing
The text begins by describing waves, their measurement and characteristics, their behaviour in shallow water, and unusual waves. Next, mainly theoretical aspects are considered of sediment movement and deposition by currents, before discussing wave action in the littoral zone, tidal current action on tidal flat and in estuaries, and the interaction of waves, tides, and river flow in deltas. Finally, we examine shelf-sea processes, including an outline of their mineral resources.
Prepared by an Open University Course Team
Author: Joan Brown
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
This Volume belongs to a series on Oceanography. It is designed so that it can be read on its own, or used as a supplement in oceanogrphy courses. After a brief introduction to sea-floor sediments, the book shows how the activities of marine organisms cycle nutrients and other dissolved constituents within the oceans, and influence the rates at which both solid and dissolved material is removed to sediments. It goes on to review the carbonate system and shows how sediments that come from continental areas may be transported to the deep sea, explores what sea-floor sediments have taught us about the history of the oceans, and describes the biological and chemical processes that continue long after sediments have been deposited on the deep sea-floor. * Covers the basics on the occurrence, distribution, and cycling of chemical elements in the ocean * Features full-color photographs and beautiful illustrations throughout * Reader-friendly layout, writing, and graphics * Pedagogy includes chapter summaries, chapter questions with answers and comments at the end of the book; highlighted key terms; and boxed topics and explanations * Can be used alone, as a supplement, or in combination with other Open University titles in oceanography
Author: Rachael James
This Volume describes the processes that shape ocean basins, determine the structure and composition of the ocean crust, and control the major features of the continental margins. Further subjects examined are the 'hot springs' of the deep oceans, the main pattern of sediment distribution in ocean basins including the recording of past climatic and sea-level changes, and the role of oceans as an integral part of global chemical cycles. Each Volume in this set is well laid out and copiously illustrated with full colour photographs, graphs and graphics. Questions to help develop arguments and/or understanding can be found in the text and at the end of each chapter, with worked answers provided at the back of each Volume. Each chapter also concludes with a sum mary to help consolidate understanding before the next chapter is begun.
Their Structure and Evolution
Author: Joan Brown
The atmosphere and the ocean -- Ocean currents -- The North Atlantic gyre : observations and theories -- Other major current systems -- Global fluxes and the deep circulation.
Author: Open University,Angela Colling,Open University. Oceanography Course Team,Open University (Milton Keynes) S330 Course Team
Effective coastal engineering is expensive, but it is not as costly as neglect or ineffective intervention. Good practice needs to be based on sound principles, but theoretical work and modelling also need to be well grounded in practice, which is continuously evolving. Conceptual and detailed design has been advanced by new industry publications since the publication of the second edition. This third edition provides a number of updates: the sections on wave overtopping have been updated to reflect changes brought in with the recently issued EurOtop II manual; a detailed worked example is given of the calculation of extreme wave conditions for design; additional examples have been included on the reliability of structures and probabilistic design; the method for tidal analysis and calculation of amplitudes and phases of harmonic constituents from water level time series has been introduced in a new appendix together with a worked example of harmonic analysis; and a real-life example is included of a design adapting to climate change. This book is especially useful as an information source for undergraduates and engineering MSc students specializing in coastal engineering and management. Readers require a good grounding in basic fluid mechanics or engineering hydraulics, and some familiarity with elementary statistical concepts.
Processes, Theory and Design Practice
Author: Dominic Reeve,Andrew Chadwick,Christopher Fleming
Publisher: CRC Press
Category: Technology & Engineering
The first two chapters outline the causes of circulation patterns in the atmosphere and oceans, emphasizing the interactions between them. Chapter 3 deals with the surface circulation (including mesoscale eddies), using a minimum of mathematics. Chapter 4 reviews the history of ideas about ocean circulation (with special reference to the North Atlantic gyre), and Chapter 5 describes the major current systems at high and low latitudes. The final Chapter returns to the theme of ocean-atmosphere interaction, especially the global transport of heat and freshwater, and the formation of sub-surface water masses. Fully illustrated in four coloursFully illustrated in four colours
Prepared by an Open University Course Team
Author: Joan Brown
'Introductory Dynamical Oceanography' 2nd ed provides an introduction to Dynamical Physical Oceanography at a level suitable for senior year undergraduate students in the sciences and for graduate students entering oceanography. It aims to present the basic objectives, procedures and successes and to state some of the present limitations of dynamical oceanography and its relations to descriptive physical oceanography. The first edition has been thoroughly revised and updated and the new work includes reference to the Practical Salinity Scale 1978, the International Equation of State 1980 and the beta-spiral technique for calculating absolute currents from the density distribution. In addition the description of mixed-layer models has been updated and the chapters on Waves and on Tides have been substantially revised and enlarged, with emphasis on internal waves in the Waves chapter. While the text is self-contained readers are recommended to acquaint themselves with the general aspects of descriptive (synoptic) oceanography in order to be aware of the character of the ocean which the dynamical oceanographer is attempting to explain by referring to Pickard and Emery's 'Descriptive Physical Oceanography' 4th edition.
Author: Stephen Pond,George L. Pickard
For decades, previous editions of John Knauss’s seminal work have struck a balance between purely descriptive texts and mathematically rigorous ones, giving a wide range of marine scientists access to the fundamental principles of physical oceanography. Newell Garfield continues this tradition, delivering valuable updates that highlight the book’s resourceful presentation and concise effectiveness. The authors include historical and current research, along with a 12-page color insert, to illuminate their perspective that the world ocean is tumultuous and continually helps to shape global environmental processes. The Third Edition builds a solid foundation that readers will find straightforward and lucid. It presents valuable insight into our understanding of the world ocean by: • Encompassing essential oceanic processes such as the transfer of heat across the ocean surface, the distribution of temperature and salinity, and the effect of the earth’s rotation on the ocean. • Providing sensible and well-defined explanations of the roles played by a stratified ocean, global balances, and equations of motion. • Discussing cogent topics such as major currents, tides, waves, coastal oceans, semienclosed seas, and sound and optics.
Author: John A. Knauss,Newell Garfield
Publisher: Waveland Press
Most boating is done in coastal waters, yet being close to land can often present greater dangers than sailing offshore. Near to the coast, sea conditions are more complex: winds and currents change in strength and direction, often unpredictably, waves are distorted by shallows, and even in fine weather there are tidal races, tricky headlands and other areas of rough water that can increase the risks of human error, gear failure and seasickness. Many of the recommended techniques used in offshore voyaging - such as lying to a sea anchor or trailing warps - are not suitable when close to land. In this highly practical guide, filled with helpful tips, real-time techniques and sound advice borne of years of first hand experience, Ken Endean explains the phenomena of rough water and shows how a good understanding of coastal sea conditions and careful passage planning should enable boaters to avoid the roughest areas, seek shelter underway and thereby reduce passage times. He includes advice on: coastal winds and waves, shallow water and shoaling, swells and currents, tides and currents in conflict, estuary effects, bars and banks, when to take the long way, how to read the surface, getting into harbour safely, making the most of smooth water, and much more. Coastal boaters have little scope for mistakes and plenty of opportunities to exercise skill and sound seamanship - this practical down-to-earth book will enable everyone, whether in a yacht or a powerboat, to do just that.
Winds, Waves and Tidal Races
Author: Ken Endean
Publisher: A&C Black
Category: Sports & Recreation
The rapidly developing field of oceanography has necessitated the publication of a fifth edition of this classic textbook. The revised version provides an introduction to descriptive (synoptic) oceanography and contains updated information on topics such as the heat budget, instruments and in particular, the use of satellites. The sections on equatorial oceanography, sea-ice physics, distribution and El Nino have been completely rewritten. The book is further supplemented by text on thermohaline circulation, mixing and also coral reef oceanography.
Author: George L. Pickard,W. J. Emery
This book commemorates the 70th birthday of Eugene Morozov, the noted Russian observational oceanographer. It contains many contributions reflecting his fields of interest, including but not limited to tidal internal waves, ocean circulation, deep ocean currents, and Arctic oceanography. Special attention is paid to studies on internal waves and especially those on tidal internal waves in the Global Ocean. These papers describe the most important open problems concerning experimental studies of internal waves and their theoretical, numerical, and laboratory modeling. Further contributions investigate the physics of surface waves and their interaction with internal waves. Here, the focus is on describing interaction processes between internal waves and deep currents in the ocean, especially currents of Antarctic Bottom Water in abyssal fractures. They also touch on the problem of oceanic circulation and related processes in fjords, including those occurring under sea ice. Given its breadth of coverage, the book will appeal to anyone interested in a survey of ocean dynamics, ranging from historic perspectives to modern research topics.
Circulation, Waves, Polar Oceanography
Author: Manuel G. Velarde,Roman Yu. Tarakanov,Alexey V. Marchenko
This original volume draws on the author's own research experiences in Ireland, Britain, France, Canada, and the United States to present a guide of coastal environments for applications of shoreline and environmental management. Topics include: long-term development of coasts, water supply and waste disposal, energy resources and coastal water management, coastal water management for recreation, coastal management of storm hazards, and managing world sea-level rise.
An Introduction to the Physical, Ecological, and Cultural Systems of Coastlines
Author: R. W.G. Carter
Author: Robert H. Stewart
Publisher: Orange Grove Text Plus
This book discusses selected theoretical topics of coastal hydrodynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal oceanography and coastal engineering. It is not intended as a handbook; the emphasis is placed on presentation of a number of basic problems, rather than giving detailed instructions for their application. The bulk of the material deals with surface waves. In the author's opinion there is still a strong need for a book on wave phenomena in the coastal waters, as general textbooks on sea surface dynamics focus most of their attention on the deep ocean. This book intends to fill this need by concentrating on the phenomena typical of the coastal zone. Based on lectures given at the Institute of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences in Gdansk, the approach throughout is a combination of the theoretical and observational. A basic knowledge of ordinary and partial differential equations, as well as the statistical and spectral analysis of time series, is assumed. The reader should also be familiar with fundamental hydrodynamic concepts. The book comprises nine chapters. Governing equations and conservation laws are treated in Chapter 1, using the variational principles. The theory of regular surface waves is covered in Chapters 2 to 4. The nonlinear effect of wave train modulation and their breaking of beaches is examined in Chapter 5. Chapters 6 and 7 focus on the statistical and spectral treatment of waves induced by wind. Current generation and circulation pattern are the subject of Chapter 8, while sea level variations are examined in Chapter 9. References for further reading are given at the end of each chapter.
Author: S.R. Massel
Category: Technology & Engineering
Environmental information is important for successful planning and execution of naval operations. A thorough understanding of environmental variability greatly increases the likelihood of mission success. To ensure that naval forces have the most up-to-date capabilities, the Office of Naval Research (ONR) has an extensive environmental research program. This research, to be of greatest use to the warfighter, needs to be directed towards assisting and solving battlefield problems. To increase research community understanding of the operational demands placed on naval operators and to facilitate discussion between these two groups, the National Research Council's (NRC) Ocean Studies Board (OSB), working with ONR and the Office of the Oceanographer of the Navy, convened five previous symposia on tactical oceanography. Oceanography and Mine Warfare examines the following issues: (1) how environmental data are used in current mine warfare doctrine, (2) current procedures for in situ collection of data, (3) the present capabilities of the Navy's oceanographic community to provide supporting information for mine warfare operations, and (4) the ability of oceanographic research and technology developments to enhance current mine warfare capabilities. This report primarily concentrates on the importance of oceanographic data for mine countermeasures.
Author: Commission on Geosciences, Environment and Resources,Ocean Studies Board,Division on Earth and Life Studies,National Research Council
Publisher: National Academies Press
Category: Technology & Engineering