The Aesthetic Economy of Fashion

Markets and Value in Clothing and Modelling

Author: Joanne Entwistle

Publisher: Berg

ISBN: 1847887473

Category: Design

Page: 224

View: 1370

Fashion is bound up with promoting the 'new', concerned with constantly changing aesthetics. The favoured styles or looks of a season arise out of the work of a vast range of different actors who collectively produce, select, distribute and promote the new ideals, before moving on to next season. How, then, are fashionable commodities stabilized long enough for them to be selected, distributed and sold? Since there are few studies that actually examine the work that goes on inside the world of fashion, we know little about these processes. This book addresses this gap in our knowledge by examining how aesthetic products are defined, distributed and valued. It focuses attention on the work of some of the market agents, particularly model agents or 'bookers' and fashion buyers, shaping the aesthetics inside their markets. In analysing their work, Entwistle develops a theoretical framework for understanding the distinctive features of aesthetic marketplaces and the aesthetic calculations within them.
Posted in Design

Critical Studies

Kultur- und Sozialtheorie im Kunstfeld

Author: Elke Gaugele,Jens Kastner

Publisher: Springer-Verlag

ISBN: 3658104120

Category: Social Science

Page: 375

View: 872

Der Einführungsband zu Kultur- und Sozialtheorien im Kunstfeld bildet den ‚State of the Art‘ gegenwärtiger Kunstausbildung in seiner transdisziplinären und methodologischen Vielfalt ab. Die disziplinäre Palette reicht dabei von traditionsreichen Fächern wie Philosophie und Kunstgeschichte über Kultur- und Kunstsoziologie, Architektur- und Medientheorie, bis hin zu den Studies der Gegenwart: Queer Studies, Visual Studies, Transcultural Studies, Fashion Studies u.a. Darüber hinaus werden fächerübergreifende theoretische Ansätze und angewandte Praxisfelder vorgestellt.
Posted in Social Science


Die Behauptung des Neuen in der Mode

Author: Alicia Kühl

Publisher: transcript Verlag

ISBN: 3839428858

Category: Design

Page: 334

View: 5912

Wie kommt das Neue der Mode auf die Welt? Alicia Kühl zeigt, dass das Neue nicht mehr im Modedesign, sondern im Modenschaudesign behauptet wird. In ihrer modetheoretisch fundierten Arbeit, für die sie zudem Theorien des Performativen, des Raumes, der Atmosphären und des Neuen hinzuzieht, untersucht sie Modenschauen ausgewählter Haute-Couture-und Prêt-à-porter-Designer_innen der letzten 30 Jahre und zeichnet nach, inwieweit die in ihnen erzeugten Atmosphären als Lösung einer vestimentären »Inventionsbredouille« eingesetzt werden. Die Studie hinterfragt erstmals die Funktion und Position der Modenschau innerhalb des Modezyklus, was auch eine Neubewertung der Rolle der Kleidung nach sich zieht.
Posted in Design


Theorie, Geschichte und Ästhetik einer kulturellen Praxis

Author: Gertrud Lehnert

Publisher: transcript Verlag

ISBN: 3839421950

Category: Design

Page: 200

View: 1932

Mode - das ist weit mehr als bloß Kleidung. Das Buch entwickelt eine aktuelle und in dieser Form lange überfällige Theorie der Mode: Es macht Mode sowohl als Teil der materiellen Kultur wie auch als Ergebnis kulturellen und ästhetischen Handelns verstehbar. Die Rolle der Mode für die Konstitution von kulturellen und individuellen Identitäten wird analysiert, ihre Qualität als soziales Zeichensystem oder ihre Bedeutung als Wirtschaftsfaktor von globaler Dimension. Und schließlich gerät Mode auch als Kunstform in den Blick - als Spiel mit ästhetischen Möglichkeiten, das unseren Alltag in ungeahnten Ausmaßen prägt und durchdringt. Das Buch bietet eine Grundlage der Beschäftigung mit Mode in der akademischen Lehre und Forschung, in der Aus- und Weiterbildung in Modedesign und Modemanagement sowie in den Kultur- und Theaterwissenschaften.
Posted in Design

Fashioning Models

Image, Text and Industry

Author: Joanne Entwistle,Elizabeth Wissinger

Publisher: A&C Black

ISBN: 0857853112

Category: Design

Page: 224

View: 6851

The fashion model's hold on popular consciousness is undeniable. How did models emerge as such powerful icons in modern consumer culture? This volume brings together cutting-edge articles on fashion models, examining modelling through race, class and gender, as well as its structure as an aesthetic marketplace within the global fashion economy. Essays include treatments of the history of fashion modelling, exploring how concerns about racial purity and the idealization of light skinned black women shaped the practice of modelling in its early years. Other essays examine how models have come to define femininity through consumer culture. While modelling's global nature is addressed throughout, chapters deal specifically with model markets in Australia and Tokyo, where nationalist concerns colour what is considered a pretty face. It also considers how models glamorize consumption through everyday activities, and neoliberal labour forms via reality TV. With commentaries from industry professionals who experienced the cultural juggernaut of the supermodels, the final essay situates their impact within the rise of brand culture and the globalization of fashion markets since 1990. Accessible and highly engaging, Fashioning Models is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and related disciplines.
Posted in Design

Pricing Beauty

The Making of a Fashion Model

Author: Ashley Mears

Publisher: Univ of California Press

ISBN: 0520260333

Category: Social Science

Page: 305

View: 7627

A study of the world of modeling. Exploring an arena of cultural production, it shows how the right 'look' is discovered, developed, and packaged to become a prized commodity. It examines how models sell themselves, how agents promote them, and how clients decide to hire them
Posted in Social Science

Gender in transition

discourse and practice in German-speaking Europe, 1750-1830

Author: Ulrike Gleixner,Marion W. Gray

Publisher: Univ of Michigan Pr


Category: History

Page: 391

View: 9112

The late Enlightenment saw an acute transformation of gender definitions in the German cultural areas of Europe, leading to a “polarization” of the sexes. Where early modern cultural norms had once affirmed a multitude of differences within society, modernity was founded on an ideal of equality which, although embraced as universal, in practice applied only to white male citizens. The new dichotomies of gender, socioeconomic status, and race created by this disparity between rhetoric and practice held tremendous social implications for all Germans. Law and science inscribed a new set of morals with gendered virtues and social spheres. Masculinity and femininity came to be understood as opposites based in nature. The transformed gender system fueled an epochal social reordering. Gender in Transition recounts the innumerable ways in which this drama played out in German-speaking Europe during the transitional period between 1750 and 1830. A cast of accomplished scholars examine the effect of gender in numerous realms of German life, including law, urban politics, marriage, religion, literature, natural science, fashion, and personal relationships. “Gender in Transition highlights the key role played by developments in German-speaking areas to the creation of the ‘modern’ gender system. It presents the stimulating research of scholars on both sides of the Atlantic, some of whose work has not been widely available in English, and demonstrates the interconnectedness of material and cultural transformations.” —Merry Wiesner-Hanks, author of Women and Gender in Early Modern Europe "This volume fills a long-standing gap in gender history of the 18th and early 19th century in German-speaking Europe. Its interdisciplinary perspectives shed new light on the discourses and practices of gender in a period in which many of the pillars of German ‘modernity’ were formed—states, civil society, and public sphere. This book will quickly find its place on reading lists for courses in both gender history and history of German-speaking Europe for both the early modern and modern periods." —Kathleen Canning, Professor of History, University of Michigan Ulrike Gleixner is Privatdozentin, Department of History, Technical University Berlin. Marion W. Gray is Professor and Chair, Department of History, WesternMichigan University.
Posted in History


Author: Patrik Aspers

Publisher: Springer-Verlag

ISBN: 3658087803

Category: Social Science

Page: 174

View: 3434

Unser Leben wird von Märkten bestimmt. Sie sind für die kapitalistischen Volkswirtschaften weltweit konstitutiv und haben von Anfang an viele öffentliche Debatten ausgelöst. Während Märkte für die Einen der unübertroffene Modus der Handlungskoordination sind, werden sie von Anderen als Quelle vieler gesellschaftlicher Übel eingestuft und bekämpft. Dieses Buch vereint das Wissen über Märkte von Soziologie, Ökonomie und Anthropologie und untersucht systematisch die verschiedenen Formen von Märkten, denen wir täglich in unserem Leben begegnen.
Posted in Social Science

Räume der Mode

Author: Gertrud Lehnert

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783770552009

Category: Fashion

Page: 293

View: 6268

Posted in Fashion

L'Art de vivre

decorative arts and design in France, 1789-1989

Author: Catherine Arminjon,Cooper-Hewitt Museum

Publisher: Vendome Pr


Category: Architecture

Page: 255

View: 8439

Posted in Architecture

Material Culture

Critical Concepts in the Social Sciences

Author: Victor Buchli

Publisher: Taylor & Francis

ISBN: 9780415336420


Page: 5

View: 4508

Material culture is the study of material products of human manufacturing processes, or "the history of things." Since material culture studies re-emerged in the late 1960s, this field of study has spread to a variety of other disciplines including cultural studies, history, literary studies, semiotics, consumer studies, market research, museum studies, linguistics, design, and art history, to name just a few. This five-volume set brings together key nineteenth and twentieth century texts, along with the most significant publications from the past forty years to create an accessible and comprehensive survey of the field. Each volume includes a new introduction by the editor, placing the articles selected within their intellectual and historical context and the set is completed with a thorough index.
Posted in

Textile Technology Digest

Author: N.A

Publisher: N.A


Category: Textile industry

Page: N.A

View: 6944

Posted in Textile industry

African American Dress and Adornment

A Cultural Perspective

Author: Barbara Martin Starke,Lillian O. Holloman,Barbara K. Nordquist

Publisher: Kendall Hunt Publishing Company


Category: Social Science

Page: 218

View: 4607

Posted in Social Science

Encyclopedia of clothing and fashion

Author: Valerie Steele

Publisher: Charles Scribners Sons/Reference

ISBN: 9780684313955

Category: Design

Page: 434

View: 3116

"Steele, director of the Fashion Institute of Technology Museum, has crafted, with the help of 325 contributors, an authoritative introduction to fashion, the industry, and the issues that hve defined the field. Some 640 articles describe the colorful facets of couture and textiles, from fabrics of chintz, corduroy, and feathers to such garb as aprons, bikinis, and prison dress. There are color plates and nearly 600 black-and-white illustrations. Back matter includes a comprehensive index, a timeline, and a topical outline."--"Reference that rocks," American Libraries, May 2005.
Posted in Design

The Social Psychology of Clothing

Symbolic Appearances in Context

Author: Susan B. Kaiser

Publisher: Fairchild Books


Category: Social Science

Page: 651

View: 2501

A single glance at our clothing reveals a wealth of information about how we perceive ourselves, each other, and our place in society. In this classic text, Susan B. Kaiser brings to the surface the unconscious thought processes we use to decide not just how clothes look, but what they mean. In a new section written especially for this updated edition, Kaiser addresses the increasingly multicultural emphasis of the study of clothing and appearance. She also reexamines fashion in terms of gender, ethnicity, sexuality, and social class, offering a more broad-based and inclusive vision of the social psychology of clothing.
Posted in Social Science

Die Realität der Massenmedien

Author: Niklas Luhmann

Publisher: Springer-Verlag

ISBN: 3658177381

Category: Social Science

Page: 143

View: 3128

Das Buch mit seinem berühmt gewordenen Diktum "Was wir über unsere Gesellschaft, ja über die Welt, in der wir leben, wissen, wissen wir durch die Massenmedien" analysiert aus systemtheoretischer Sicht die heutige Mediengesellschaft.
Posted in Social Science

Future beauty

30 Jahre Mode aus Japan

Author: Akiko Fukai,Catherine Ince

Publisher: N.A

ISBN: 9783791345512

Category: Fashion

Page: 255

View: 7002

Posted in Fashion

Living in Interesting Times

A Decade of New Chinese Photography

Author: Iris Wachs,Zhenqing Gu

Publisher: N.A


Category: Photography, Artistic

Page: 70

View: 9884

Posted in Photography, Artistic